Saigon 1995 Part II: Immersion in Vietnam History and Culture – Saturday, April 29, 1995

Robert Cox

03 May 2025 — 12 min read

Pagoda dedicated to Thiên Hậu, the Chinese sea goddess

My dinner hosts of Friday departed early Saturday morning for a holiday I did not see them again. I was put in touch with a young American guy who worked as a translator and paralegal for the same firm. So, on Saturday, April 29, I explored Saigon, some on my own and some with a young American, fluent in Vietnamese, tasked with guiding me over the weekend.

Rex Hotel located in District 1 near the Ho Chi Minh City Hall and Nguyen Hue Boulevard, is a historic luxury hotel and a central landmark in Saigon.

We visited Vinh Nghiêm Pagoda, its seven-story tower a cultural landmark, the Ho Chi Minh City Museum with its flame-tree-lined entrance, and the Saigon Central Post Office, its Eiffel-designed arches a colonial gem. He helped me navigate a “river of bicycles” near the Reunification Palace—a chaotic swarm of riders which tested my nerves as the translator guided us through the bustle — “just walk straight through, they will go around you, and whatever you do don’t stop moving” as he disappeared into the swarm ahead of me.

We made it across and continued exploring Saigon: Bến Thành Market, the Rex Hotel, its with its striking colonial style. The translator took me to a “secret” market under a highway overpass, concealed behind large plastic sheets, where vendors sold goods beyond government oversight, a glimpse into Saigon’s informal economy.

We toured the former U.S. Embassy Saigon, its locked gates evoking 1975’s evacuation. I kept looking for a way to take “the shot” that was taken of the last helicopter off the roof at the Embassy but could not find it. I only recently learned that that rooftop photo was on a different building, a CIA safe house, which I did not see from where I was standing. It may well have been torn down prior to 1995, given its purpose, possibly left in bad condition by CIA officers who were abandoning the building on April 30, 1975.

Operation Frequent Wind was the largest helicopter evacuation in history, airlifting over 7,000 people—mostly Vietnamese allies of the U.S.—out of Saigon in less than 24 hours. The helicopter in the photo belonged to Air America, a CIA-operated airline, and was evacuating Vietnamese associated with U.S. operations. The image captures the chaos and urgency of the moment, as thousands were left behind when the last helicopters departed on April 30, 1975, hours before North Vietnamese tanks rolled into the city.

On January 31, 1968, at 2:15 AM, a group of Viet Cong special forces (referred to as “Biet Dong Quan” or special operations unit) from the Nghia Phong area of Saigon attacked and briefly occupied the U.S. Embassy, a significant symbolic target. This event was a turning point in the Vietnam War, as it shocked the American public and shifted perceptions about the conflict.

A commemorative plaque stood outside the former U.S. Embassy in Saigon, now part of the U.S. Consulate in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. The plaque, written in Vietnamese, translates to: "This is the dangerous location of the U.S. Embassy during the Vietnam War. During the Tet Offensive of 1968 at 2:15 AM on January 31, the Nghia Phong Special Forces Unit of the Saigon area caused significant damage to the enemy and occupied this important American base for several hours." I have no idea where that plaque is now. The geometric-patterned wall and gate, since torn down, were near Le Duan Street in District 1.

A current photo of U.S. Consulate General 4 Đ. Lê Duẩn, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam

I made it a point to stand at this historically significant gate, the entry point breached by the Viet Cong's Nghia Phong unit during the Tet Offensive on January 31, 1968. The embassy compound, located near Le Duan Street in District 1, was a focal point of the Vietnam War, and this gate was part of the perimeter the Viet Cong attacked. The embassy building itself was still standing in 1995 but was demolished later in the decade. (April 29, 1995)

The exterior of the former U.S. Embassy in Saigon. The distinctive wall with its geometric pattern and the gate match historical images of the embassy compound. The embassy building itself was demolished in the late 1990s, but in 1995, it was still standing, though no longer in use as an embassy after the U.S. withdrawal in 1975. (April 29, 1995)

This iconic black-and-white photo depicts the evacuation of Saigon on April 29, 1975, during the Fall of Saigon, marking the end of the Vietnam War. The image, often credited to Dutch photojournalist Hubert van Es, shows a U.S. helicopter (a UH-1 Huey) on the roof of a building at 22 Gia Long Street (now Lý Tự Trọng Street), near the U.S. Embassy in Saigon. The building was a CIA safe house, not the embassy itself, though it's frequently misidentified as such in popular narratives. A ladder extends from the helicopter to the rooftop, where Vietnamese civilians are desperately climbing to escape as North Vietnamese forces closed in on the city. Many did not make it out (see video below). (April 29, 1975)

Locals were curious about my presence, and engaged me, offering me their business card, most of them hoping I would hire them.

A Saigon resident offered me his business card.

I went to a museum, a pagoda and wandered the streets.

I visited the Ho Chi Minh Museum in Saigon on April 29, 1995. The museum is dedicated to the life and legacy of Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam’s revolutionary leader. The museum is housed in a French colonial building known as the “Dragon House” (Nhà Rồng), originally a customs house built in 1863, located near the Saigon River at 1 Nguyễn Tất Thành Street in District 4. The quote on the red banner above translates to “The Hùng Kings had the merit of founding the nation; we, their descendants, must together preserve the nation.” This quote is famously attributed to Ho Chi Minh and is often displayed in museums dedicated to him, particularly in the Ho Chi Minh Museum, as it emphasizes national unity and heritage.

Entrance to the Thiên Hậu Pagoda, also known as the Chùa Bà Thiên Hậu, located in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. The pagoda is dedicated to Thiên Hậu, the Chinese sea goddess, and is a significant cultural and religious site for the Chinese-Vietnamese community. The architecture features traditional Chinese elements, such as the tiled roof with intricate decorations and the red and gold color scheme, symbolizing good fortune and prosperity.

I visited the Thiên Hậu Pagoda (Chùa Bà Thiên Hậu) in Saigon on Saturday, April 29, 1995 The ornate altar, adorned with red and gold decorations, offerings, and intricate carvings, is dedicated to Thiên Hậu, the Chinese sea goddess. The setting reflects traditional Chinese-Vietnamese religious practices, with elements like incense burners and ceremonial items visible on the altar.

A bustling street scene in District 1 of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam, during my visit for the 20th anniversary of Reunification Day. The banner translates to “Vietnam Port Bank”, a financial institution, common in central Saigon’s business districts. Motorbikes, cyclos (cycle rickshaws), and a few cars, reflect the primary modes of transportation in Saigon on April 1995, and reflects the vibrant energy of the city at the time, blending everyday life with the festive atmosphere of the celebrations.

Me, standing in front of the Bến Thành Market, a historic and iconic landmark in Ho Chi Minh City, during the celebrations for the 20th anniversary of Vietnam’s reunification. The market is recognizable by its distinctive architecture, featuring a large clock tower at the main entrance, traditional Vietnamese design elements like the curved roof, and the intricate latticework on the upper facade. Built in 1912 by French colonial authorities, the market is one of the city’s oldest and most famous, known for its bustling atmosphere and as a central hub for locals and tourists to buy everything from fresh produce to souvenirs. (April 29, 1995)

The prominent building in the background is the Vĩnh Nghiêm Pagoda, a well-known Buddhist temple in Ho Chi Minh City, recognizable by its distinctive seven-story tower with traditional Vietnamese architectural elements, such as the curved roof and ornate detailing. The pagoda, built in the 1960s, is a significant cultural and religious landmark in the city. (April 29, 1995)

A street scene in front of the famous seven-story pagoda, which is the Vĩnh Nghiêm Pagoda. The image shows a group of locals on motorbikes and bicycles, reflecting the everyday life of Saigon during the 20th anniversary celebrations of Reunification Day. (April 29, 1995)

On my own for a bit on April 29, I decided to walked from the Floating Hotel to the War Remnants Museum, I noticed a minder following me, my constant surveillance. Having spent months in Bangkok working away from family, I felt isolated in Saigon and saw an opportunity for company. I approached him calmly, seeking conversation. “Do you speak English?” I asked. He didn’t respond, looking startled. “Your job’s to keep an eye on me, right? I’m heading to the American War Museum—why don’t we walk together? I’ll have someone to talk to, and you can keep an eye on me.” He paused, as if weighing whether he’d earn a medal or face a firing squad, then nodded. We walked side by side, me asking about landmarks, him guiding me to the museum with reserved courtesy.

My minder-friend took me on Saturday, April 29, 1995, to see The Vĩnh Nghiêm Pagoda, also known as the Vĩnh Nghiêm Tower, in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. The distinctive seven-story tower with its unique octagonal shape and the bridge over a pond with a fountain are characteristic features of this Buddhist temple. The pagoda, built in 1969, is a notable landmark in the city, known for its modernist architecture and cultural significance.

A group of people relaxing by the water, at the Nghiêm Pagoda in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, near the pond and bridge area seen in the previous photo.

After the visit, he was gone—hopefully unharmed; he’d been kind enough. The museum’s displays—tanks, Agent Orange photos—offered a poignant Vietnamese perspective.

A captured F-5E Tiger II, part of outdoor displays at the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. This museum, originally called the "Exhibition House for US and Puppet Crimes" when it opened in 1975, was later renamed the War Remnants Museum in 1995 after the normalization of U.S.-Vietnam relations. It is often referred to as the "American War Museum" by visitors due to its focus on the Vietnam War, known locally as the "American War." (April 28, 1995).

A captured M48 Patton tank, part of outdoor displays at the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. This museum, originally called the "Exhibition House for US and Puppet Crimes" when it opened in 1975, was later renamed the War Remnants Museum in 1995 after the normalization of U.S.-Vietnam relations. It is often referred to as the "American War Museum" by visitors due to its focus on the Vietnam War, known locally as the "American War." (April 28, 1995).

A framed exhibit at the War Remnants Museum contains military medals and ribbons donated by William Brown, a U.S. Army Sergeant from the 1st/30th Artillery, 502nd Infantry. The text reads: "To the People of a United Vietnam, I Was Wrong, I Am Sorry." The medals include a Purple Heart, Bronze Star, and others, symbolizing Brown's regret for his role in the Vietnam War. This display is a notable part of the museum's collection, reflecting a personal apology from an American soldier to the Vietnamese people, aligning with the museum's focus on the war's impact and reconciliation efforts.

Today, the War Remnants Museum located at 28 Vo Van Tan, District 3, is one of the most visited, attracting around 500,000 visitors annually, two-thirds of whom are foreigners. Established on September 4, 1975, shortly after the fall of Saigon, it initially opened as the "Exhibition House for US and Puppet Crimes," reflecting its original anti-American stance. Over time, as Vietnam normalized relations with the U.S.—notably after the 1994 lifting of the U.S. embargo and 1995 diplomatic normalization—its name evolved to the War Remnants Museum, softening its tone. The museum houses over 20,000 documents, artifacts, and films across three floors, with exhibits on the Vietnam War’s atrocities, including the effects of Agent Orange, napalm, and the My Lai massacre. Outdoor displays feature U.S. military equipment like a UH-1 "Huey" helicopter and an M48 Patton tank.

Entering a retail store back near my hotel, I found hand-carved Zippo lighters from the war era. Negotiating alone, I passed on the $10 price, hoping to return Sunday for a lower offer, unaware the store would be closed. It’s a great regret—trying to save a few dollars on an authentic U.S. military etched Zippo, which I’d have cherished as a daily cigar smoker.

Notre-Dame Basilica of Saigon, also known as Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica or simply Notre-Dame Basilica, located in District 1 near Đồng Khởi Street and the Ho Chi Minh City Hall in Saigon. It was originally called the Church of the Immaculate Conception and later became known as Notre-Dame Basilica in 1959 when it was elevated to the status of a basilica by the Vatican.

Later that evening, on my own again I attended a Catholic Mass at Notre-Dame Basilica, its French architecture and devoted but tiny congregation a serene contrast to the communist setting.

A CNN news crew set up on the square near the Ho Chi Minh City Hall, also known as the Saigon City Hall or the Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee Headquarters, in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam where CNN broadcast from all week. It was these broadcasts that led me to make the impromptu trip to Vietnam for the 20th Anniversary of the Fall of Saigon.

I wanted to make sure I made my way over to the CNN location so on Saturday night I left my hotel and went over to the area they were broadcasting from then strolled around.